Southern Cities

CHARLESTON:

On advice of neighboring RVers at Huntington Beach, we stayed at the Charleston KOA. It was just 11 miles from Charleston and a good choice. Charleston is a beautifully preserved city with streets paved in cobblestone and lined with 18th and 19th century architectural gems. We were surrounded by history and felt that Southern charm. We walked and walked the neighborhoods from downtown to the river. We peeked into gardens and admired the

"single"mansions, some two, some three floors, one or sometimes two rooms wide, with the narrow gable side porches toward the street to catch the southwest breeze. On one side the front door opens from the street onto the long, usually two-storied porch. Behind was a long extension for slave or servant quarters, depending upon pre- or post-civil war use. The well known rainbow row is a street of pastel painted houses. On and on they went, one wonderful place after another. It is amazing how much wealth was accumulated from virtually free slave labor, and from the agricultural productivity and commerce that allowed.

We found a little lunch spot, as sister Penny recommended. Gaulart & Malicetlet was right in the heart of the many law offices downtown, at 98 Broad Street, and we clearly a "local" place. It was fast-French, and everyone, all twenty-eight of us, sat at a long bar. We had a yummy and cheap lunch, which included a glass of French wine, and we enjoyed the local color of the customers and conversation. We then took a long stroll on the Battery, the port-sided street that housed protective canons, and from which the Confederate States shelled Fort Sumpter, across the bay.

After two days in Charleston it was time to move further south to

SAVANNAH:

Pat found a good web site: http://www.savannahgetaways/, where we rented an apartment in the heart of the Victorian District, right next to the Historic District of Savannah. We had a bedroom, living room, full kitchen, bath and patio. Friday afternoon and we thought we would go for a stroll and check out the neighborhood. Within a block we were at Forsythe Park, a large park full of moss-draped trees, fountain, gardens and statues.

When cotton was king, Savannah flourished and residents built homes showing their wealth. There are mansions and big steeple churches on every corner: Baptist, Presbyterian, Catholic, a Gothic Synagogue and the Wesley Memorial Methodist Church. John Wesley was here in 1836, right after Georgia became the thirteenth colony 1833. Wesley had a disappointing love affair here -- perhaps he was too short, at 5'4"? -- and he was also disappointed with his lack of success with colonists and native Americans. He returned to England, and on the homeward voyage, his ship was caught up in a huge storm that threatened their very lives. While all aboard puked and were scared to death, Wesley took notice of the Moravians, who were singing, praying and showing every confidence in God's providence.

He knew something was missing in his spiritual life and went searching, finding it on what Methodists call Aldersgate Sunday, back in England. From that insight a far reaching movement was born that would work a profound influence on the American colonies. Before we knew it we were all the way to the Savannah River.

The first night, we cooked in. Jon had found a Pompano at a Real Foods, which he cooked up in a steamed wrap, with butter, white wine and herbs. It was a treat to have such a large kitchen in which to cook!

The Savannah School of Art and Design (SARD) has a huge influence on the city, with over 8,000 students. Since their beginning in 1979, they now have bought and renovated over fifty-five buildings in the downtown area, devoted to student housing, classrooms and studios. Starting with an old armory, they have created a truly urban campus and directly influenced the cultural life of Savannah in a most positive way.

Then, following Pat Johnson's suggestion, we dined at Elizabeth's. Wow! A great captain, Kris, introduced us to the specials and the menu items. Jon had perused the wine list and picked a 1992 Pommard. We ordered squash soup with shrimp (fantastic) and crab and lobster salad (killer). Way more than a salad, it was packed with lobster and crab stacked on top of diced tomato and herbs. Wow! Then Kris brought us two glasses of wine that he thought would complement these appies. He was right on! Since one of the wines he brought was a Monchoff German Riesling, Jon engaged him in conversation about German wines and the Selbach family with whom Jon had done business. He and the chef/owner know the Selbach family, and Mrs Selbach and been there for her eighty-first birthday! He was excited and so was Jon. Then Kris brought us out three more glasses, compliments of the house, one of whom was a Selbach Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinet, a Monchoff Spatlese, and a QBA from Josefhoffer. Outstanding!

Next came a bit of salad greens. Dinner included rack of lamb, corn pudding and okra, tomato and eggplant "stew" for Pat and Jon had Idaho/Japanese pork(Kris was impressed that we knew this pork) and very fancy potato pancakes layered with a fried green tomato slice and very lightly sauteed greens, probably turnip, very delicate and tasty. This was not just Southern cooking. It was one of the most outstanding meals we have had. To end it all, Kris brought us another complimentary glass of dessert wine. What a night!

The next day we took the get on/get-off trolley. We got off for a lunch break at the Market Center, where we had a good lunch in a charming place along the river! Then we heard the MUSIC! Just a few blocks away, a blues band was tearing it up on one of the squares at the waterfront. A kick butt, twelve-string guitar player/singer, harmonica player, killer bassist and drummer leading on the beat. What a concert! Humdinger!! Back on the trolley, we toured the historic area, listening to our guide explain the histories of these parks, homes and churches.

Since we had TV, we were able to watch the BSU game. Too bad no defence team showed up, but it kept us on pins and needles until after midnight!

Next morning we headed WEST!